Green or white, asparagus is replacing sunchokes and other winter squashes on the stalls of early spring produce, as the last remnants of winter are chased away by the arrival of spring. The asparagus is a plant sentinel that announces the coming of beautiful days. Generally, white asparagus is harvested earlier than the greener variety, which is more sun-hungry. The abundant rains in March have delighted producers and boosted the size of the white asparagus, which consists of 80% water.
The color of the asparagus is not incidental; on the contrary, it relates to taste, geography, and cooking methods. White asparagus is known for its more pronounced flavor and is primarily consumed in the north, while green asparagus delights the south and the Mediterranean coastline.
In the kitchen, the tough, fibrous ends should first be trimmed, and it’s important to take the time to peel them with a vegetable peeler to make them tender.
White asparagus prefers boiling or steaming, while green asparagus also enjoys being sautéed in a pan.
In the Landes, the leading department for asparagus production, restaurateurs involved in the “Asperges en fête” initiative are currently offering complete menus centered around asparagus. Chef Mathis of Maison Devaux elevates it in three stages in a gourmet waltz with pata negra croquettes paired with white asparagus, farro risotto with glazed asparagus, and even a dessert featuring chocolate mousse with asparagus ice cream.
Par Jean-Pierre Montanay
