Haneeth
By Kirsten Ujvari
Maher Al Nammary, a chef and food writer, explains how to make the most traditional dish in Saudi culture: Haneeth, which originated in the southern region. Haneeth is deeply rooted in family traditions and prioritises savour and smokiness over specific cooking techniques. It can be made with or without spices, with lamb (preferably) or male goat. It can be cooked in different ways, in a traditional tandoor oven, either above or below ground, in a mifa (a large wood-burning oven), a mandi (a gas stainless steel oven) or even a high-pressure cooker to give it a modern twist. It all depends on the family recipe or region. Haneeth can be found in restaurants, but the Saudis enjoy it the most at home or when camping outdoors. Making it for friends is the ultimate sign of hospitality. The secret to Haneeth is slow cooking, layered flavours and love.
Ingredients
– Lamb
– The chef’s own spice blend
– Long-grain rice (can be basmati)
– Ghee (clarified butter)
– Honey (optional)
– Onions (caramelised)
– Marakh herb, Marakh al-Huqab or Al-Bisham
1. Spice rub
Maher prepares the lamb by rubbing it with his own spice blend. Every family or chef has their own, he explains, but some spices are always present: coriander, cumin, black pepper and paprika. “You can then add garlic, curry, turmeric, etc. It all depends on the flavours of the terroir."
2. Letting the meat rest
The lamb is then massaged to soften its flesh and left to rest for a day, allowing the spices to permeate it deeply. “That also varies from cook to cook. Some let it rest for a day, some for an hour. Sometimes it is also glazed with honey or boiled. The personal touch when preparing Haneeth is also what makes it so special.”
3. Smoking and roasting
The lamb is placed on a bed of shrub, whether Marakh, Marakh al-Huqab or Al-Bisham. Those woody plants with persistent stems grow abundantly in mountainous areas and in valleys. They are characterised by the fragrant smell they give off when their leaves are rubbed or a branch is taken. The lamb is then slowly roasted in the oven at a very low temperature for about 6 hours, resulting in tender and succulent meat. “The cooking time depends on the oven I use,” says Maher.
4. Preparing the rice
When the meat is almost ready, Maher starts preparing the rice. “I use long-grain rice, basmati for example.” He rinses it and boils it in the same kind of spice mixture as the meat. “And there is the parallel: meat and rice eventually blend in abundant flavours .I sometimes add a natural yellow colourant to it to give the rice a more caramel aspect.”
5. Plating
Now it’s time to plate and layer. The rice is placed at the centre of a large dish, while the lamb is laid on top. A garnish of shrub is added, followed by a sprinkle of caramelised onions and honey. At this final moment, all the flavours blend beautifully together. The smokiness entices you to savour the dish and inhale the wafting aromas. Everyone comes together, creating a shared experience. This is the enchantment of Haneeth: its complex simplicity.