By Aitor Alfonso
Rozo
34 Rue Raymond Derain, 59700 Marcq-en-Barœul
03 62 27 72 52
www.restaurant-rozo.fr
To accommodate all their talent, Diego Delbecq and Camille Pailleau left the city center and moved to a (much) bigger place in Marcq-en-Barœul. Their restaurant, Rozo, is now taking roots between the walls of a renovated former print shop, transformed into a restaurant-cathedral with a façade of red bricks. Diego, free-spirited, offers a dynamic and seasonal cuisine: a discovery of mushrooms, pickles and watercress as starter or lamb in an acidic herb sauce… But the menu also features a standout surf and turf dish: a concretion of seaweed and both raw and cooked vegetables, bathed in invigorating iodized water, paying culinary homage to the ebb tide. A completely plant-based creation from the chef, as at Rozo, we eat with the times. For dessert, Camille’s pollen ice cream alone is worth the 20-minute taxi drive from downtown Lille. Despite their move, Rozo has lost none of its shining star.
Ginko
70 Rue de l'Hôpital Militaire, 59800 Lille
03 20 77 64 03
www.ginkorestaurant.fr
One sign can hide another! Beneath the sign still reading “Le Vinci”, it’s actually Valentina Giacobbe and Julien Ingaud-Jaubert’s Ginko that’s making its mark.An elegant, softly lit corridor leads to an inner courtyard, where Valentina’s calm energy radiates, and her meticulous, precise cuisine circulates: scallops dusted with whipped carrot kimchi and tangy broth with coral powder, cod resembling mother-of-pearl, complemented by glazed salsify and seaweed butter sauce ; gnocchi greener than Shrek with seaweed and samphire cream… With the same understated ease, Julien serves up a flawless pear sorbet on a thin almond biscuit for dessert. And with his shaker at the ready, he also crafts refined cocktails, including one with fermented fig. Ginko is definitely a venture worth keeping an eye on.
Rillons
7 Rue Grande Campagne, 59242 Templeuve-en-Pévèle
03 20 64 25 60
www.rillons.fr
Besides carving out a niche in the Grand Lille with Witloof; his 21t-century tavern, Mickäel Braure has decided to raise the stakes at this unpretentious village inn, a few kilometers from the first. Light wood, a cigar humidor, and a tasting menu make up this new spot where France’s most affable former Top Chef adds finesse to friendliness (with a hint of mischief): beef tongue tartare and razor clam served on a bovine skull ; wild boar fillet, potato churros, pak choï cabbage, and smoked chanterelle mushroom mousseline ; a surprising dessert inspired by couscous… Here we see Chef Braure diving into a subtle exercise that suits him, without compromising his motto: “fat is life”!
L'Annexe
613 Av. de la République, 59800 Lille
03 28 52 03 59
www.lannexe-lille.fr
L’Annexe is the go-to family restaurant on the outskirts of Marcq-en-Barœul, the place to celebrate an uncle’s birthday, graduation, or reunite with a group of old friends. With its white walls and hanging bulbs, Alexandre and Anne-Sophie Montoi’s establishment exudes cheerfulness, and the menu displayed on the chalkboard highlights quality ingredients and generosity. On that day, it was duck fillet, beetroot, radish, and tarragon condiment; a hearty serving of polenta emulsion with lentils and dandelion compote ; generous pork tenderloin, endive, roasted pear and aged Boulogne chesse, or the more upscale saffron lobster. For dessert, the kiwi mousse and matcha cake delighted everyone with honesty and simplicity. The service is attentive and energetic. As for the wine list, it offers everything you need to leave without any lingering thirst… This Annexe is anything but secondary.
La Laiterie
138 Av. de l'Hippodrome, 59130 Lambersart
03 20 92 79 73
www.lalaiterie.fr
On the way to the old racetrack stands this remnant of a dairy farm, reincarnated into a timeless restaurant. Breton chef Edouard Chouteau has trained at some prestigious establishments (Le Bristol, Clarence in Paris) and continues to climb the haute cuisine ladder from the northern perspective, having been based in Hauts-de-France for three years now. In the grand dining room, his toque-adorned cuisine oscillates between masterful traditional dishes and origingal creations: a soufflé crepe nestled in shellfish bisque and crowned with Malagasy caviar ; a tour de force in the form of a Rossini-style pheasant pie covered with truffle shavings ; okonomiyaki with cabbage and Flemish carbonnade sauce ; a variation on mackerel… To finish, indulge in the dairy-baised desserts by pastry chef Benjamin Cannois, including a memorable ice cream made with grilled vanilla pods. But fear not, at La Laiterie, it’s not just milk on offer: the wine cellar, boasting thousands of references, shelters some of the most prestigious bottles of the region. A place of distinction for grand and special occasions.
The Revue T, a partnership between Omnivore and Transgourmet, explores and showcases the world of producers and chefs through debates, portraits and reports that make it truly unique.
