Jeddah, a day in the life

It’s an hour before sunset. All over the city, the citizens of Jeddah are performing Fajr, the dawn prayer. Most of the fishing boats are already back to shore and the fish market is preparing for another colourful daily auction. The gateway to Makkah, the second largest city in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is also its commercial centre and main port. Caravans of spices, frankincense and myrrh have travelled for ages along the Red Sea, shaping the tastes and mentality of the whole coastal region over the course of its 2,500-year history. Jeddah is a city of trade, a city of flavours, a city of fragrances, always ready to seduce its visitors with the delicacies of its soulful cuisine.

With 40 grams of salt per litre, compared to 30 grams for the North Atlantic Ocean and only 8 grams for the Baltic Sea, the Red Sea is the saltiest body of open water in the world – a particularity said to improve the texture and the taste of the fish. More than 2,000 species have been documented, including a few hundred used in cooking. Some of them are familiar to Western palates, such as sardines and tuna, but most of them are very typical of the region. The Napoleon wrasse, called tarabani, is among those surprises with its recognisable grimacing face, as well as the turquoise parrotfish, called hareed, the gold-saddle goatfish, the white trevally, the stripped sea bream and its cousin the threadfin bream, nicknamed Sultan Ibrahim, or the extremely popular wild coral grouper, the najel. They are all used in Sayadieh, the iconic Middle Eastern dish made of seasoned fish and rice. Shellfish is also very prominent, notably shrimp, lobster, cuttlefish and blue crab. The latter, often considered as an invasive species in Mediterranean waters, thrives in the Red Sea and is a cornerstone of Jeddah cuisine. It is usually cooked in an onion, turmeric and tomato sauce but can also be found deep-fried.

Fajr
In the maze of stalls at the fish market, already buzzing with a dense crowd in the early morning, the silvery sheen of the scales contrasts with the pungent marine smell. Locals come here to do their shopping, but the connoisseurs and the big buyers head to the back, leaving the heart of the market for a much more confidential area where the fish auctions take place. Surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the bidders crowding round the fish, the auctioneer proudly sits in the centre, like an orchestra conductor. Tied together with straw in bales of different weights, the fish are tossed in front of the buyers as he chants the asking price and the progress of the bids. A heady melody that he intones in a calm, focused voice, scrolling through the amounts that can vary from a few Saudi riyals to the equivalent of US$120 for 1 kilogram of the precious najel. For this particular fish, the depth at which it has been caught will increase the final price.

Dhuhr
Before Dhuhr, the second prayer marking the beginning of the hot afternoon hours, it is time to experience the richness of a real Saudi breakfast, featuring some iconic dishes such as tamees bread and fuul, a fava bean purée. For three generations, Shanashil, whose name refers to the wooden oriel windows characteristic of Jeddah’s architecture, has been cooking up authentic, affordable dishes with the purest respect for tradition. The décor is dazzling, with gilded chandeliers, ornate woodwork, the smell of oud in the air, the image of opulence as one might imagine it. Some recipes have been decades in the making. Initially, the restaurant only served fuul, a specialty where fava beans are simmered in a large amphora for hours, then mashed to a creamy texture and seasoned with spices, tahini, chilli, onion and olive oil. Other ingredients such as tomatoes or sprinkled hard-boiled egg are sometimes added, according to personal taste. Fuul can be purchased to go – in a simple plastic bag – or eaten on the spot as the central element of the breakfast.

The table features a shakshuka with eggs that have been cooked until they crumble; goat’s liver with spices; glabah, a mixture of cheese cooked with tomato; masoub, a pudding made from bread, churned milk and banana, topped with grated cheese and honey… Freshly baked on the sides of the tandoor clay oven, three types of bread complete the luxurious assortment of mezze: the classic tamees is accompanied by batbout, a slightly thicker bread thanks to the addition of baking powder, and maluh, which has a stringier, almost flaky texture. The whole meal is shared, every guest building up each bite with bread, spices and dips – using only the right hand as etiquette dictates. Flavours mingle, and the conversations carry on at every table in a joyful and familial atmosphere typical of Saudi hospitality.

Asr
Just after Asr, the second afternoon prayer, the sun is still high in the sky and the street almost deserted. In the alleyways, where only cats take the time to lounge in the shade, long rows of spice stores exude the scent of cumin and incense. One of them stands out as an epicentre of snacks and sweets of all kinds. Fresh, roasted or flavoured nuts, every type of date there is (to be chosen according to the variety, sweetness level or even chewability), and dozens of candies and chocolates, each individually wrapped like little treasures in their own shiny paper. And as proof of the current importance of coffee culture, in the heart of one of the oldest backstreets is a coffee shop with its brand-new Marzocco. The place offers traditional Saudi coffee as well as iced lattes with almond, oat or coconut milk in a shack that has clearly stood the test of time. Saudi hospitality is inextricably linked with coffee, which is systematically offered to visitors on arrival, accompanied by a date. In the northern part of the city, Talah Al-Jood Sary is the ideal place to discover the complexity and diversity of this legendary fruit of the Kingdom. Here you’ll find the most popular as well as the rarest varieties: Sukkari, Ajwa, Safawi, Segai… They can also be enrobed in chocolate or tahini (for a sweet-savory contrast) or even stuffed with dried fruits such as apple or pineapple and all kinds of nuts.

Maghrib
Before sunset, the corniche comes alive. Even if the water doesn’t run through the heart of the town, it brings the necessary calm and freshness. Cars are parked in a row facing the sea, and chairs are pulled out to watch the sunset and enjoy some family time, just after Maghrib, the evening prayer. On the shore, ice cream trucks come and go. No signs, no menu, just a simple choice: vanilla, chocolate or both, pouring from the turbines that form these hypnotic whirlpools enjoyed by young and old alike. Childhood memories with boundless echoes.

Isha’a
Night has fallen. Isha’a, the last prayer of the day, is over. In Al-Balad, the historic centre of Jeddah and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the traditional houses with their wooden mashrabiyas – called shanashil or rowshin here – are all quiet. The only noise heard comes from Ba’eshan, with its small upstairs room where diners sit on the floor and eat Sayadieh, a selection of the day’s catch, spiced and fried, served on a mountain of rice, with a choice of unctuous sauces. Fish in Jeddah can be appreciated in a million ways, from whole fried najel to shrimp with breadcrumbs, from lobster tail in cream and butter to grilled tarabani or oven-roasted crab covered in melted cheese. But Sayadieh is the most endearing and authentic of them all. Its name means “catch”; any combination of fish can be used in it, depending on what the sea brought into the nets of the fishermen. It embodies the culture of sharing and enjoying food together, and perfectly translates Saudi generosity. It is not really traditional to end on a sweet note, but among the desserts that Saudis are particularly fond of is kunafeh or knaf. Although not officially native to the area, local shops have taken the liberty of creating some one thousand and one variations on this pastry, which is eaten hot and consists of a layer of melting cheese between two layers of angel hair (phyllo dough), all drizzled with orange blossom syrup. The type of cheese can be changed, replaced for example with a clotted cream that is fairly close in texture to ricotta. The qatayef can also be ground or replaced with semolina, mixed with banana, coconut and cream, or even covered with an imposing chocolate topping. From the saltiness of its sea water to the deep sweetness of its pastries and snacks, Jeddah is a city of contrasts. At once spiritual and rebellious, intrinsically linked to the paths of Makkah and the Spice Routes, the city offers a unique playground for those wishing to follow in the footsteps of the flavours of eastern Saudi Arabia. From evening to morning, between prayers, between sea and sky, the pearl of the Red Sea never fails to delight its guests.

Par Peyo Lissarrague & Alice Polac