At the heart of the plates: a more sustainable, plant-based, and seasonal cuisine

How can we move away from a diet that is predominantly meat-based and partly reliant on out-of-season ingredients or unsustainable farming practices in a challenging economic context? “The restaurant industry is still doing too little for the ecological transition,” regrets Fanny Giansetto. By co-founding Écotable in 2019, the teacher-researcher wanted to support restaurateurs in this movement “out of conviction.” The label developed by the organization dispels many misconceptions and allows professionals to measure the impact of their choices: “70% of a product’s environmental impact is linked to its farming method. Therefore, it is essential to turn to sustainable agriculture, even if the products come from slightly farther away.” This challenges the trend of "local" sourcing, which has been growing over the past four years. Restaurateurs must be able to identify suppliers that allow them to work within short supply chains, thus limiting additional costs caused by multiple intermediaries. “Ultimately, it’s a market-driven cuisine that prevails, evolving according to what is available, with fruits and vegetables selected at peak season to combine flavor and cost control,” explains Fanny Giansetto.

Bringing more plants to the plate: an exciting challenge
The goal is not only to change sourcing methods but also to transform the composition of dishes. Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx sums up the shift well: “France needs to move from beef-and-carrots to carrots-and-beef.” In other words, not eliminating meat (or seafood, which also faces serious resource depletion issues) but rethinking the proportions. For Fanny Giansetto, this challenge is full of opportunities: “Highlighting the diversity of plant-based ingredients allows for an exciting culinary experience.” Making vegetables desirable is an appealing ambition, as they still suffer from a somewhat negative image. This approach could help bring customers together around restaurants that combine deliciousness with sustainability, fostering a holistic shift… which means avoiding shortcuts while upholding the indulgent aspect of this alternative cuisine. “This more plant-based restaurant should not mimic meat through processed substitutes,” states the co-founder of Écotable, whose label’s criteria have evolved to discourage processed and ultra-processed foods, which are now known to pose health risks. Through this return to fundamentals, restaurateurs may well discover a new identity!

By Rémi Héluin