Thick as thieves
Among the Lyon specialties, the saucisson à cuire is probably the most convivial; it's the one you always have on hand and toss into a water bath when friends drop by unexpectedly. That’s why the magazine T brought together Olivier Canal, chef-owner of the bouchon la Meunière, and Bruno Bluntzer, the big boss of Maison Sibilia, who are friends both in life and in the kitchen, to share a generous slice with us.
Among the Lyon specialties, the saucisson à cuire is probably the most convivial; it's the one you always have on hand and toss into a water bath when friends drop by unexpectedly. That’s why the magazine T brought together Olivier Canal, chef-owner of the bouchon la Meunière, and Bruno Bluntzer, the big boss of Maison Sibilia, who are friends both in life and in the kitchen, to share a generous slice with us.
“I do this job out of love for interaction with others,” details Bruno Bluntzer, the happy owner of the Sibilia charcuterie institution, which he acquired in 2010 from its founder, whom he affectionately calls Colette. It’s a good fit, as exchange is precisely the theme of our day that begins around the central island of his shop in the 6th arrondissement of Lyon (with a new location in the 5th opening in September 2024), where Bruno is cutting up a pig carcass. Between slices and cuts, the two friends discuss the differences and shared passion that unite their profession. “By the way, I started as a cook, but my father threw obstacles in my way. In a sense, he closed one door for me but opened the door to charcuterie,” laughs the master of the establishment.
With the hams and other bellies chopped, he invites us to move on to mâchon, a typical morning snack in the region that delights workers of all kinds who start their days long before dawn. On a platter, brioche sausage, rosette, pâté-croûte, and other charcuterie delights await us. It’s an opportunity for our two adopted Gones to continue their debate. The topic of football, however, is avoided. Olivier, born in Marseille, and Bruno, a big fan of L’OL, “one of the reasons I moved to Lyon,” can hardly agree on the subject.
With our palates refreshed by two glasses of white Beaujolais from the Galet winery, we head toward the 1st arrondissement of Lyon. With a saucisson à cuire and a sabodet (a boiled sausage made from tongue and jowl) under our arm, we arrive at the kitchens of La Meunière, where Olivier begins preparing his recipe under the watchful eye of the charcutier. The chef hollowed out a potato (previously cooked), mixing the flesh with small pieces of sausage, shallot, and butter, before Bruno, driven by his instinct as a cook, adds a splash of red wine. The potato, once stuffed with this mixture, goes into the oven.
While it cooks, the chef sets the table and serves his gargantuan homemade pillow, an XXL pâté-croûte infused with foie gras, veal sweetbreads, and duck from Dombes. Once the plates are ready, the imposing bearded man joins us, a local wine pot in hand. As we savor the nostalgic stuffed potato with its sweet buttery flavor, the conversation turns to the rivalries that can sometimes taint their respective professions. “We prefer to be proud rather than jealous. As long as we’re talking about Lyon and its cuisine, its bouchons, we’re happy. It can only be beneficial for everyone,” emphasizes Olivier, who is also the President of the Association of Lyonnaise Bouchons.
With dessert skipped, it’s time to part ways. To seal their friendship, the two proud representatives of Lyon’s gastronomy finish this half-day together by gifting each other their books. The exchange continues
Transgourmet products available only in the Rhône-Alpes region
• Lyonnais cooking sausage "Chicago" pistachio 3% 600g piece - code: 852576
• Pâté en croûte from the markets 2 kg piece - code: 012492
• Lyonnais cooking sausage 600g piece - code: 429101
• Pistachio brioche sausage 1 kg packet - code: 852577
• Pistachio brioche sausage 350g piece - code: 816075
• Pistachio brioche sausage 500g packet - code: 429104
• Natural brioche sausage 1 kg packet - code: 429103
• Natural brioche sausage 500g piece - code: 816078
• Veal strawberry andouillette 600g piece - code: 816076
• Lyonnaise andouillette 200g piece - code: 816077
• Gones andouillette 200g piece - code: 429102
Lyonnais Sausages and Stuffed Potatoes
INGREDIENTS
• 1 sabodet (cook in simmering red wine and must for 1 hour and 30 minutes)
• 1 cooking sausage (cook in water for 45 minutes)
• ¼ L of brown stock
• ½ red onion
• 4 old potatoes
• 200 g of coarse salt
• 50 g of butter
• 50 g of fresh cream
• Flat parsley
RECIPE
Reduce the cooking broth of the sabodet, add the brown stock, and reduce until a glossy texture is obtained.
Dice ¼ of the cooking sausage and the sabodet into brunoise. Cook the potatoes in the oven for 1 hour and 30 minutes at 170°C on a bed of salt. Remove the top and scoop out the inside. Mix the scooped flesh with the brunoise, chopped onion, parsley, butter, and cream.
Stuff the potatoes with the mixture and bake for 5 minutes at 180°C.
Slice the remaining cooking sausage and sabodet, ladle sauce over them, and garnish with a stuffed potato.
By Florian Domergue
