Les Ateliers des Grands Cèdres : terroir of here and elsewhere, the hybrid and committed project
Futur(e)s Food celebrates its third edition with the same ambition: to reward innovative and committed entrepreneurs who are reinventing the way we eat in the face of economic challenges and the climate crisis. Out of the 225 projects submitted, this year’s edition has dished out awards to six of them, judged to be exemplary in an eclectic range of innovative fields.
Futur(e)s Food celebrates its third edition with the same ambition: to reward innovative and committed entrepreneurs who are reinventing the way we eat in the face of economic challenges and the climate crisis. Out of the 225 projects submitted, this year’s edition has dished out awards to six of them, judged to be exemplary in an eclectic range of innovative fields.
Nestled in the village of Cordelle, a stone’s throw from Roanne, Les Ateliers des Grands Cèdres offers a mosaic of activities, including gastronomy, tableware and local crafts. Housed in the restored former winery of a historic estate, the workshops were founded in 2022 by Maxime Vavasseur with this ambition in mind. “I wanted a place rooted in the region,” he explains. “Where each dish tells the story of the land where it was born.” The result is a space where the creativity of visiting chefs blends with a commitment to local and sustainable food.
At the heart of this project is a circular approach. Every summer, Les Ateliers welcomes five chefs, each invited to showcase the region’s produce. Maxime works closely with organic market gardeners, a local baker and even a Meilleur Ouvrier de France to offer exceptional ingredients: sun-drenched tomatoes, local trout, crunchy radishes and artisan breads. For Maxime, “It’s a return to our roots, where chefs explore the richness of our terroir while adding their own personal touch.”
An integrated pottery studio
The chefs, often recruited by Maxime himself, come from all over the world. This year, for example, he invited a Chinese chef after falling in love with the cuisine on a recent trip. Each residency is an invitation to explore new flavours using techniques from elsewhere while respecting local produce. The chefs retain total freedom in their creations, but the challenge is to adapt their cooking to local requirements and the values of the place.
Maxime’s commitment doesn’t stop with the plates: with his passion for pottery, he has integrated an on-site ceramics workshop, producing all the tableware used in the restaurant. “I only work with clay from Burgundy, to be faithful to our local approach.” The ceramic pieces evolve each season, according to the chefs’ suggestions and the evolution of their dishes.
Attracted by the restaurant and the authenticity of the experience, visitors hail from all walks of life. From loyal locals to curious tourists, all come to recharge their batteries in this atypical place with the promise of a gastronomic break in an exceptional setting. While the project is a success, it is not without its challenges. Alternating chefs means constant reorganisation of the kitchen and logistics. “With each new residency, we have to relearn how to work together and readjust our habits,” stresses Maxime, “but this dynamic enriches the place.”
The winner of the Futur(e)s Food competition in the “Experience” category, Les Ateliers des Grands Cèdres has been recognised for its pioneering approach. For Maxime, this recognition is a real boost: “It’s a great opportunity to make our project known beyond the region and to connect with a wider network. What’s planned for the future? An aim to maximise the customer experience with new accommodation solutions and to strengthen the teams to welcome chefs-in-residence in the best possible way.” Maxime is even considering a collaboration with a permanent chef to further structure the organisation and refine the culinary identity of Les Ateliers.
By Alice Polack et Jean-Pierre Montanay
