François-Régis Gaudry : insatiable

You invited us to Les Canailles, a neighborhood bistro in the heart of Pigalle. What does this restaurant say about you?

First of all, it's close to my home, so I’m a regular there. But more seriously, it’s one of my favorite bistros! The name suits it well—it offers cuisine canaille, a kind of bourgeois, hearty cooking, crafted by a chef who knows how to work with sauces, master roasting, and nail the perfect seasoning and cooking times. My curiosity is insatiable, but I must admit that my ambitions in terms of discovery have evolved. Before, I felt the need to check off every three-star restaurant, every new spot that the industry was buzzing about, influenced by the prevailing gastronomic discourse and my fellow critics. More and more, I find myself stepping away from that to seek out forgotten little boui-bouis hidden in the folds of Paris’ restaurant map. More often than not, these are small foreign restaurants I’ve never heard of—the tiny Thai place on the corner, unassuming, with a modest decor and low prices, but where I might stumble upon a divine green papaya salad. These kinds of experiences are what excite me more and more.

What is your overall take on the state of the restaurant industry in France today?

Right now, it's quite complicated, paradoxical, and even anxiety-inducing. I've rarely seen so many new restaurants opening up in every corner, across all categories of gastronomy—from well-executed street food to highly ambitious fine-dining establishments with lavish décor and ostentatious tableware. In short, there’s an abundance of new openings, yet the overall situation (economic, political, geopolitical, and climatic) is putting a strain on the industry. I've never found it so easy to book a table at top restaurants. Since the beginning of summer, the entire sector has been struggling. On top of that, rising energy costs, skyrocketing ingredient prices, and inflation have made things more difficult than ever—perhaps not since the Gulf War in the early ’90s. I speak with two or three restaurateurs in Paris every day, and the feedback is always the same: "We're struggling!"

There’s always a 'new cuisine' emerging; how would you describe it?

Broadly speaking, in restaurants aiming for stars or high ratings, there is a rapid shift toward sustainable gastronomy, emphasizing short supply chains and local sourcing, cooking as close as possible to the place of production. I say rapidbecause there’s an undeniable pressure—both from the media and increasingly knowledgeable consumers. At the same time, we’re witnessing a major movement toward plant-based cuisine. I've never seen such a level of creativity and effort dedicated to vegetables in all their diversity.

476,000 followers on Instagram, a radio show on France Inter, appearances on Top Chef, published books—you’re like a small business yourself. Would you say you’re a key figure in this industry?

I don’t really think in terms of whether I matter or not. But when I visit a restaurant with a camera or talk about my latest coup de cœur on the radio and soon after receive a text from the chef saying customers are flooding in, well, that makes me really happy. It also comes with a real sense of responsibility—because when you have influence, you have to strive to act with integrity.

Nearly 50 years old and still not jaded?

Not at all! Quite the opposite. I’m at a point in my career where I’m being offered opportunities beyond journalism. For example, last year, the National Theater of Lorient invited me to organize a kind of gastronomic happening, blending theater and live performance, where my team and I read texts in front of an audience of 700 people. I was also asked to curate an exhibition at La Conciergerie on the history of Parisian gastronomy. Then there’s the Saveurs et Savoirs festival in Uzès, which I got involved with through a local bookstore. I feel like I’m in a virtuous cycle, where one project leads to another.

Another adventure—you were part of the Super Jury for Service Compris, supported by Transgourmet, to select France’s best food project. Is this your way of staying connected to the field?

Exactly! I think this initiative is fantastic. It contributes to culinary dynamism by supporting innovative projects. And, incidentally, it’s also a way for me to practice my craft. Sitting on a jury where a dozen entrepreneurs pitch their ideas—covering everything from business plans to interior design to menu concepts—offers a real snapshot of France’s evolving food scene. From business school students looking to pivot into the food industry with a clever sandwich shop to the competition’s winner, a butcher’s son launching a next-generation rotisserie with meticulously sourced meats—and even plant-based roasting! It’s inspiring, and it reassures me that exciting things are happening in France.

For which dish would you give up everything?

Ah, a proper spaghetti alla carbonara, made the authentic Roman way!

By Jean-Pierre Montanay