Riyadh, the dazzling capital

Lines. The infinite one of the horizon, the curved ones of sand dunes, the resolute one of skyscrapers, the angular one of cars and buildings. Lines that act like frames that try to enclose life itself. There is no such thing as a perfect picture of Riyadh because it is constantly in motion, already preparing that new dish, that new thing, that new drink for which you were not yet ready. Millions of grains of sand, millions of souls. The mystical silence of the desert under an impeccable tapestry of stars, less than an hour from the incessant roar of city traffic and the dancing colours of neon lights. Here in the capital, the vibrancy is palpable. Born of heritage and tradition, shaped by desert sunsets and the unique pace of Middle Eastern life, the taste of Arabia is connecting to the planet, ready to conquer the hearts of foodies. North of Rub’ al Khali, the Empty Quarter that covers the south-east of the Kingdom, Riyadh is a paragon of plenitude. Full of tastes, sounds and fragrances, blossoming day after day in the new dawn of a country yet to be discovered. International cuisine has already taken hold of Riyadh, where bustling restaurants offer the best of Asian, Italian and South American cuisine. But a new generation of Saudi chefs is beginning to make a difference, leading to the rise of a new culinary scene full of promise. And, as always, the changes are taking place at the margins. Pastry shops, cafés and food trucks are the first messengers of a revolution in the making.

Qahwa power
It’s everywhere: at the airport, in stations, on the side of the roads, in food trucks, restaurants, malls, at any hour of the day. Coffee is undeniably at the core of Saudi culture. Some of the best coffees in the world are grown in the Kingdom, whose history has been linked for time immemorial to the growing and trading of the precious beans. Roasting has become an art, passed on from generation to generation. A symbol of hospitality, the famous Saudi coffee has shaped the taste of a whole country of afficionados, young and old, women and men. When the second wave of specialty coffee took over the world, Saudi Arabia was ready and embraced the change with a passion and an enthusiasm unlike anywhere else. If you want to drink a luxurious Japanese-style V60 iced coffee, a world-class French press or an excellent espresso, head to Riyadh.

And for those who prefer more colourful beverages, most coffee shops feature a spectrum of options: Spanish lattes, pistachio lattes, cereal milk lattes, matcha cocoas, tiramisu lattes… The list is ever-expanding, from the most minimalist to the most creative, with a few Saudi inspirations like the date brew with infused milk or the kunafa latte with added katayef (angel hair).

The times they are a-changing
Sheltered from traffic, young people find refuge in the heat of the afternoon in increasingly diverse and inventive venues. The Social Café, on Thaliyah Street, is one of them. In the middle of the day, the sun’s rays streaming through the small windows illuminate a streamlined modern décor, with sandy tones and small enclaves offering just the right amount of privacy for discreet conversations. The young and diverse clientele are a perfect reflection of the dynamic opening up and modernisation of the country in recent years. People don’t just come here for a coffee. They also come to eat, work, meet people or take part in workshops. The programme of events graces the tables: quiz night on Saturday, ceramics workshop on Wednesday, cookery class the following Monday, broadcast of a tennis match or live concert. The Social Café has been in existence for three years and its aim, from the beginning, has been to blend different cultures, as reflected in the South American touches, the sculptures reminiscent of Mexico and the photos from California. Coffee may be everywhere, but Riyadh has not forgotten its roots in the tradition of spices, infusions and teas. Salah Tea is one of the establishments that celebrates this heritage in all its forms. Don’t miss the karak, a blend of tea, saffron, cardamom and milk with a hint of ginger, reminiscent of the masala chai latte 4 . It is accompanied here by manakish, small pastries baked over a wood fire and filled with haloumi, various cheeses and even falafel. The excellent Bateel café also offers a fine variation on the karak, in an even more subtle style where the saffron unfolds all the depth of its aromas. It is served with one of the splendid ripe dates that the company specialises in.

Keep it cool
Another delight enjoyed at all times and in all seasons in Riyadh is ice cream. Inspired by local traditions, this sweet treat has been modernised with constantly more appealing creations. A pioneer of young Saudi cuisine, Abdulrahman Alorayfij is one of its finest ambassadors. Passionate about exploring local flavours, he has reinvented the culinary identity of Saudi Arabia with original creations that pay tribute to each region of the country: a date, ghee and dried yoghurt ice cream for Riyadh; a rose water and pomegranate sauce ice cream for Jeddah; and a bold banana and saffron ice cream with papaya sauce for the Asir region. For the recent Saudi Film Festival, sponsored by the Cultural Development Fund, he came up with unique flavours, each representing a cinematic genre: a dark chocolate and cherry ice cream for drama, a lemon and honey ice cream for comedy, and a bold palm leaf ice cream for adventure. For him, “cooking is the only art that fully engages all five senses”. “Ice creams and pastries are becoming extremely important elements of the new Saudi culinary scene,” Abdulrahman Alorayfij continues. “I myself had the pleasure of working with the Floated waffle shop, which is a fine example of this new approach to sweets.” The cream and honey passion waffle proves him right, as do the menus of trendy cafés offering halva brownies, cheesecakes with a twist, za’atar pastries and date cakes. As night falls, the vast square next to the King Fahad National Library building in the central business district of Al-Olaya comes to life. Families settle down under the palm trees to enjoy the cooler hours, joined by a stream of electric buggy renters, balloon sellers and food trucks. Here, you can order colourful ice creams, aromatic teas and infusions, or doughnuts in a variety of flavours. In Riyadh, gourmandise never sleeps 6 and, as throughout the Kingdom, it is around food that the strongest bonds are forged.