From Riyadh to Al-Hofuf, a tale of two cities

"Where are we going? I don’t know. An endless dialogue with the land, where every horizon is a question,” mused Palestinian poet and writer Mahmoud Darwish. On the train from Riyadh to Al-Hofuf, Mohamed, a young student accompanied by his older brother and father in a crisp white thawb and his mother in a burqa, explains how much he enjoys taking the train to the East while crossing the desert. From the hustle and bustle of the busy streets of Riyadh to the calm of the sand dunes, the rhythmic click-clack of the wheels carries travellers peacefully through the wasteland. The capital’s dynamic fusion of tradition and rapid modernisation is evident. Life in Riyadh mirrors a sense of urgency and ambition, with a daily rhythm oscillating between hectic activity and moments of traditional, slower-paced Saudi culture 3 . Surrounded by a blend of agrarian landscapes and traditional culture, all rooted in a strong historical heritage, the eastern city of Al-Hofuf offers a more relaxed and rural experience. Farm and family life intertwine; the oasis brings wealth and life through its resources.
“The passenger train to the East is a major connection for us,” explains Mohamed. “It brings families like mine closer, and gives us time to travel smoothly from one world to the other.” A love of contrast shared by many Saudis, demonstrating a deep appreciation of the interplay between the contemporary and the traditional in the vibrant pulse of Riyadh, where modern skyscrapers rise alongside ancient markets.

A bold heritage
Najd, the central region of Saudi Arabia reaching from the mountains of Hayel to the Empty Quarter, is often described as a fertile, rich land, characterised by its delicious dishes and red sand desert. When entering Najd Village, a restaurant in Riyadh whose name refers to these highlands, the presence of history and heritage can immediately be felt. The menu reflects that tradition, and the establishment is a popular place for all generations of Saudis. Sitting on the floor in small open rooms, patrons enjoy a mouth-watering array of traditional stews: Kabsa, Jareesh, Qursan, Al-Margaouq… The “six-hours-to-prepare dish” called Mathlouthah consists of a layer of Jareesh topped with Qursan covered with hot steamed rice and a final layer of roasted lamb, chicken or camel meat sprinkled with raisins, almonds, tomatoes and chilli, topped with boiled eggs. Gorsan is a dough made from whole wheat flour, water and yeast. The batter is baked on a flat iron plate. The thin sheet is then cut into pieces and tossed in a stew made with bits of boneless meat, tomatoes, green beans, pumpkin, courgettes, onions, black pepper and dried black limes or loomi.

The desert jewel – black lime 4 – fascinates through its sourness and complexity, resulting from the drying process that transforms fresh yellow-green limes into rock-hard, darkened fruits. Numerous stews, broths, marinades and dishes, including Jareesh or the Indian-inspired Biryani, are enriched with its citrusy and fermented notes. Loomi is also used in drinks. At Najd Village, it enhances the aromas of the traditional Saudi coffee, home-brewed well into the night.

At Takya, located in the Bujairi Terrace in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of At-Turaif, the menu also embraces tradition with great respect and care. But in the kitchen, Mohammad Quraish takes the dishes to a new level, infusing them with a modern twist and enriching the Saudi flavours with international ones. The chef’s unique approach to the traditional Haneeth is intriguing. Rather than the typical slow-cooked lamb prepared in a ta- boon clay oven, he serves lamb chops placed individually in a black stone bowl, offering a bold reinterpretation of one of the most beloved dishes in Saudi Arabia. He then flavours it with markh – the desert lavender or Sawsan plant – fire-roasted red cherry tomatoes, pickled carrot, sour cream, saffron honey sauce and green chilli.

Next door, at Villa Mamas, Bahraini-born chef Roaya Saleh follows a similarly-minded path. Reminiscing about the tastes of her childhood on the farm, working with her mother and grandmother in the kitchen, she seeks to transport these aromas beyond the Arab world. Her Khaleeji kitchen is a beautiful testimony to her love of Middle Eastern culinary heritage.

Lush life
There is something about the sound of a train that’s very moving; it carries you on a timeless journey. A journey that goes through part of the Ad-Dahna Desert, a natural corridor that links the bustle of the Kingdom’s metropolis to the sandy but green warmth of Al-Hofuf. Surrounded by verdant landscapes of vast palm groves, rice fields and vegetables, the city is nestled in the Al-Ahsa Oasis, close to Al- Qarah Mountain, both bearing a rich history.

Al-Hofuf is an easy-going town, vibrant with history and craftsmanship. In the heart of the Al-Koot neighbourhood is the Qaisariah souk, where people gather to trade their often-hand- made goods. A mix of the enchanting scents of the Orient gilds the air. You find abayas, thobes and bishts (traditional cloaks). Artisans sell various handmade items, including pottery, woven baskets and decorative items crafted from palm fronds, reflecting Al-Ahsa’s palm cultivation heritage. There are spices, herbs and preciousincense such as frankincense, oud and myrrh. Just around the corner is a paradise of dates, date-based products, and other regional vegetables and sweets.

Fields of gold
“The soil in the Al-Ahsa Oasis boasts exceptional fertility, attributed to various natural and geographical elements that support lush agriculture,” says Jafar, the brother of Zaki Al Salem. Al Salem’s family owns one of the country’s largest rice, vegetable and fruit farms. During his time studying at a university in the United States of America, Jafar became intrigued by watermelons with yellow flesh. “The only thing I could think of was getting home in my fields and growing fruits in all imaginable colours. Our key crops here, except for our exceptional Hassawi rice, are citrus fruits such as oranges and lemons, cucumbers, onions, peppers, aubergine, red sesame seeds, okra and all my self-cultivated colourful varieties of watermelons. From yellow to orange, red and green.”

Watermelons have vibrant, juicy flesh and are typically available during the warm seasons. They thrive in the oasis’s unique environment, which provides a fertile, consistently watered growing area – even in the desert landscape. The warm climate of Al-Ahsa and the ample groundwater give these watermelons a deep, sweet flavour and rich colour, making them a popular refreshment for locals during the summer.

The intense red or pink flesh of the Al-Ahsa watermelons results from high levels of lycopene, a natural pigment that also contributes to their health benefits. Their thick green rind, often striped or mottled, makes them hardy and suitable for transport, ensuring that these refreshing fruits reach local markets in excellent condition. The watermelons of Al-Ahsa are a staple of local agriculture and are especially appreciated for their perfect mix of sweetness and rich water content, making them ideal for the area’s dry climate.

The rare red sesame seeds that Al Salem cultivates have a distinctive flavour and many nutritional benefits. “The unique, nutty taste of the seeds is used in the Saudi tahini, sprinkled on our bread, and used in several savoury and sweet dishes we put on the table,” Jafar explains.

Right next to the fields, lemons are pickled and pressed, put into jars to be used in salads or into bottles of syrup to make fresh juice that locals like to drink with their rich cuisine. On linen cloths, the lemons are dried from light brown to the famous black ones. “People can come and buy our products here next to our fields or in the shops we have in the village,” continues Jafar. “We are so lucky that in the oasis, due to the natural artesian springs, our fields have a consistent water supply. This natural irrigation, combined with our warm climate, enables us to cultivate all these crops.”

On the other side of the city another surprise awaits: Abufahad Bakery. It is the place with the best Red Bread (Khubz Ahmar) made with Hassawi rice flour in Al-Ahsa or even the Kingdom. When the sun rises, people from all over come to pick up the still-warm bread loaves prepared in a traditional way: baked in pottery ovens fuelled by palm trunks, imparting a unique, earthy flavour. The reddish colour is typically achieved by incorporating dates into the dough. Khubz Ahmar is available with and without homemade date syrup, which gives it a caramel-like sweetness that comple- ments the nutty flavour of the fennel and sesame seeds sprinkled on top.

The desert’s heartbeat
Dust, sand, buzzing flies and countless camels. Located 20 kilometres from Al-Hofuf, the market’s loud roar can be heard from a distance. A few camels are penned, munching on hay from a shelf. Others cross the road in a herd, guided by vehicles, with a herder on duty. The animals look far more nervous than those you encounter crossing the desert dunes. At 3 p.m. every day, the open-air auction starts. It’s as though they sense it. Yet everything remains calm and serene. Dr Mohsen explains that at the market, the camel herders respect their animals and that the place is more than just trading: “It’s a venue for meeting, a social gathering where the herders can share their stories. The place vividly represents how desert life and traditional commerce connect. It expresses the respect, serenity and hospitality of the Saudi people. It reflects the Kingdom’s heritage and the continuous importance of camels to the nation’s identity and economy.”

As the train departs from Al-Hofuf, heading back to Riyadh, the words of Mahmoud Darwish resonate with even more power. Along the railroad tracks, from the vibrant capital to the tranquil desert and the lush Al-Ahsa Oasis, one experiences fully the connection between tradition and contemporary life: the pinnacle of hospitality and taste that the Kingdom has to offer.

By Kirsten Ujvari